by J. Lee Barton

"There is no sincerer love than the love of food" George Bernard Shaw

Nestled just below Carrick Hill, in the lush emerald countryside of County Wicklow, is Ballyknocken House - or Baile an Cnocan, Gaelic for “the town land of the little hill”.  Follow the tree lined lane from Ashford, with its hand laid stone walls and wild flowers, to this charming Victorian home, built in 1850 for the Heatherington family.  The head of this household was a rent collector for the major landlord in the area and certainly not a popular fellow with the residents. As a matter of fact he was eventually found murdered only 800 yards from the house and to this day the local folk swear the narrow country road to Ballyknocken is haunted.

The Byrne family grandparents purchased this country house in the 1940's to make it their much loved home.
The ivy covered entrance way, bright spring flowers on each side of the drive, the traditional red door, and the sweet strains of bird song make this home a bastion of serenity in the Irish countryside.  In 1968 the doors were first opened to guests and three decades later the granddaughter, Catherine Byrne and her Italian husband Claudio Fulvio , are hosts to travellers from around the planet who enjoy the soothing Victorian and Irish ambiance.  Enjoy a complimentary sherry with Catherine and the other guests in front of the log fire, before enjoying a sumptuous  three-course dinner. Then partake of an after dinner libation, before retiring to a very comfortable four-poster bed and the sweet silence of the countryside.

Wake up to the wafting fragrances of freshly baked Irish Soda Bread and Catherine's famous traditional home baked Brown bread with orange butter, being prepared for a breakfast that is just too lovely to pass up. You can of course  enjoy a fully cooked Irish breakfast with all of the trimmings, which is included in the tariff.

Catherine, a graduate of Ballymaloe and the Alix Gardiner Schools of Cookery, decided to open the Ballyknocken Cooking School in 2003 and has since gained an international reputation for beautifully prepared local produce, including the renowned Wicklow Lamb and fresh fare from the Ballyknocken House garden.

Go for a stroll around the Ballyknocken gardens and the hills adjoining the property in the early evening. If you are very quiet and especially blessed you may just see the fairies and leprechauns dancing in the one of the glens at the end of the rainbow.

If serenity, fresh air and maybe a pint at the local pub are all you wish, then this is a perfect choice as there are several walking tracks from the house and just down the road in the town of Ashford is the Alfred Beatty Pub. Green velvet and a huge open fire welcome locals and visitors alike. Pop in for a snack or stay for a great roast evening meal and have a chat with the friendly residents. However, there is so much to enjoy in this special part of Ireland you may want to expand your horizons.


Glendalough – Located in the breath-taking Valley of the Two Lakes where hiking trails abound. This is the site of a mystical sixth century monastic city, founded by Saint Kevin who was looking for solitude, which he found and where he remained for the rest of his “reputed” 120 years. It is famed for its round tower, built over 1000 years ago as a bell tower and a place of refuge for the monks in the case of attack.
Mount Usher Gardens – This Robinsonian or Free Style garden resides along the banks of the Vartry River. Trees and shrubs from all over the globe have been planted in harmony with woodland and shade-loving plants. Different seasons of the year produce varying delights. The hues of the elegant and timeless rhododendrons in Spring, the reds, pinks, golds, and purples of summer and the more subdued tones of Autumn, are all framed by the glistening waters of the river.

Alfred Chester Beatty Library Museum - If antiquities peak your interest, there is a treasure in Dublin unsurpassed in the world. Just behind the Dublin Castle resides an artistic collection of treasures from the great religions and cultures of the world - Marie Antoinette's library, original biblical texts, Egyptian papyrus , ancient gold headdresses, Turkish and Persian miniatures, Buddhist paintings, and human creative endeavour from approximately 2700BC to the present. The lifetime creator of this collection, Sir Alfred Chester Beatty, was a US mining magnate who moved to England and finally Ireland. Upon his death in 1968 the collection was passed on to the people of his adopted land.

If a visit to Dublin is on your agenda, it is suggested to take the relatively short drive from Ashford to Bray and enjoy the coastal DART train ride to the city center.

Ballyknocken House is a wonderful base to explore this area, which is rich in lush flora, and history and only an hours drive from Dublin International Airport. For more information please go to:
www.ballyknockenhouse.com