by Nancy Pitman
Once blackballed by tourism, Sicily has more than just survived harsh reviews. Filled with stunning beauty the island is climbing upward to become a top, must see destination. Whether you are looking for gold studded churches, spectacular ancient ruins, trendy nightlife, or just relax on the azure laden beaches, Sicily is a Mecca for fun loving travelers.
Getting to Sicily is easy. Fly into Palermo, or take an overnight ferry from Naples. If you have the time, the ferry is a nice addition to your trip. The cabins are tiny but, nightlife is quite lively and the food is good. Pricing starts at around 50 Euro per person for deck passage and about 179 Euro for a double cabin with Tirrenia Lines, http://www.tirrenia.it/index_en.asp. SNAV Lines starts at 30 Euro for an economy cabin low season, http://www.viamare.com. Vehicles start at 50 Euro.
Arriving in Palermo as the sun is rising over the waving coastal hills is a welcome like no other. Sharing a taxi into town is economical and takes less time than the bus. If arriving by air into Palermo, the train is quick and leaves hourly. Tickets are only 8 Euro, each direction.
Day 1
Inside the Cathedral of Monreale
Photo by By, Wikipedia
Visit the hilltop village of Monreale. Wander up the winding walkway that leads alongside tiny shops. Intricately painted Sicilian ceramics, colorful jewelry and interesting local crafts face the small road steering you to the piazza that shares Monreale’s main attraction, the Cathedral of Monreale. Although the cathedral displays an ordinary facade, a walk through the marble and mosaic doorway reveals artwork that rivals Venice’s Saint Mark’s Basilica. Glistening Byzantine mosaic tiles depict biblical stories across interior walls and ceilings. Some of the representations leave viewers pondering these historical tabloids. Notice the mosaic of Adam and Eve how much larger Eve’s feet are than Adam’s.
Children enjoy the story of Noah’s Ark as each animal disembarks to its new home on Mount Ararat. Bright lights highlight the alter apse that displays an immense mosaic masterpiece of Christ pouring out blessings upon the church. Underneath are saints of the past.
Norseman King William II, who dedicated the church to the Virgin Mary, built tiny alcoves that glimmer with golden tiles in this 12th century structure. The Cathedral was once the seat of the Archbishop of Sicily.
Drenched in archways, don’t miss the elaborate Cloister area where each deeply etched hand carved column is twirling in delightful patterns. Each one is unique, flowing in gold tiles and marble that carries a Middle Eastern influence which depicts more stories. One that is easily recognized, Jacob’s favorite son Joseph, deceived by his brothers, sold as a slave to Egypt, spent years in prison under false charges, came to be the most powerful person just under Pharaoh.
Intricate tile patchwork on columns in the Monreale Cloister
Photo by Enzian44, Wikipedia
Be sure you have your camera handy as you leave Monreale. Sicily is well known for its elaborately painted carts and large ornate wheels. Pony’s pulling the carts are dressed up with large colored feathers on their heads and harnesses embellished with multi-colored tassels and brocade. You are encouraged to take pictures for a small donation, well worth the memory.
Getting to Monreale is easy, take bus 389, departing from Piazza Independenza in Palermo or bus 109 from the main station. The ride takes 20-30 minutes depending on traffic. (Beware of pickpockets) Bus prices are 4 Euro for a 24 hour ticket. If you want to get there quickly a taxi runs approximately 30 Euro one way, caution: a return taxi can be difficult to find. You can also book a tour through your hotel or via internet before leaving home. Monreale is open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mon-Sat, 9a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Sundays. There is no charge to enter.
Next, take some time to roam Piazza della Vittoria, in the heart of political activities past and present. Stroll through the meticulously tended gardens lined with thick leafy palm trees and fragrant tropical flowers.
Historic artworks of Muslim and Norman origins are in abundance at Cappella Palatina. You get the best Byzantine mosaics starting with the spectacular cupola in the central apse. The Middle East influence is seen in the main ceiling, made from decorative woods and creatively patterned with stars that transforms into a cross. Gold encrusted archways have a flamboyant Muslim style that dominates the church.
Wrap up your first day at the Cathedral, a mishmash of Christian, Muslim and Gothic styles. Looking more like a palace than a basilica, this building is an assortment of additions and alterations; basically the Cathedral has been pieced together throughout the centuries. The observatory is of particular interest. The late 1600’s architects planned for a small hole to project sunlight onto the floor at noon. Besides the numerous art works and mosaics that make Cappella Palatina an interesting stop, visitors will discover the location of King Rogers II’s burial crypt along with other notable patriarchs.
Day 2
Wake up early to walk around largest fruit and vegetable market in Italy. Again make sure you bring your camera. Even on the main street it’s an adventure. Watch out for small cars and trucks edging between each other to offload their commodities. The streets bustle with vendors setting up stalls to sell every fruit and vegetable imaginable, while buyers meander through the aisles of this outdoor market. Freshly picked blood oranges are sweet and juicy, locally grown grapes so sweet you would think its candy. Lemons used for the famous liqueur Limoncello are in abundance. But more than just snacking, watch the people as they negotiate for a good deal through a hand language known only to Italians. Spend about an hour here.
Drive less than an hour to the ancient seaside village of Cefalu (chef-a-loo), a popular vacation spot with European families for years. The romantic setting is perched on a rocky knoll just above the calming sea. Narrow streets from medieval days boast intimate restaurants and interesting shops. The atmosphere is laid back with a double dose of charm. It’s not uncommon to see a festive wedding taking place here.
Cathedral in Cefalu
Photo by Urban, Wikipedia
Two places of interest are the Cathedral, a smaller replica of Monreale. Across from the cathedral is a small outdoor restaurant, Osteria del Duomo, sit at one of the many outdoor tables under a wrought iron awning crawling with leafy green foliage. Try their luscious Seafood Salad or savory Bruschette, and then top it off with a creamy cold Gelato. The chocolate is exceptional or if you are into coffee, the Tiramisu is absolutely heavenly. Take a short walk down to the sea to find the ancient washing quarter, a long past version of our modern Laundromats. Women would take their clothes and linens, then while scrubbing catch up on local gossip of the day. The wash area has different levels of rock walls, containing fresh water pools. Streams of water then flow down a small aqueduct, ducking through a roman archway that empties into the sea. The idea was very ingenious for its time.
If you like to hike, trek up the hillside where you can see the small ruins of what was once the Temple of Diana, one of the oldest structures built in Sicily. Keep walking to the top of the hill and enjoy a marvelous view of the village and seaside. You can see Cefalu in just a couple hours.
Drive to the west coast to the tiny seaside village of Selinunte (sell-a-none-tay) for a late lunch then take the easy walk amongst the ancient Grecian and Carthaginian ruins. Less known than Agrigento it’s quite the hidden treasure, not to mention the quiet seaside village would be the perfect overnight weekend getaway. Passing Doric columns dismantled and spewed along the ancient main road leads to all 5 temples. Selinunte started construction around 650 B.C. and had the 4th largest Grecian Temple ever built. The well-preserved Acropolis Temple, perched high on the cliffs, has a commanding view of the Mediterranean and tiny fishing town of Selinunte. Once saturated with all the important treasures of the city, it was also a political capital of the Grecian Empire. The structure was flanked by 2 rivers that eventually played a part in bringing the temple to a ruinous state. This archeological Park is one of the largest in Europe and unlike most ruins you can walk throughout the buildings as you please.
Selinunte is part of the world famous Marsala Wine region so no visit would be complete without trying some of the best as you leave town. The sweet fragrance of Marsala grapes greet you the second you walk through the door. The bar is lined with sparkling wine glasses waiting to be filled with your choice of Marsala. The wine is intertwined with brandy to give its distinct flavor and long shelf life.
Allow yourself 2-3 hours to explore. If you have time there is a small museum with ancient artifacts found in Selinunte. If you have not eaten yet try the seaside restaurant Da Vittorio. The fresh fish is grilled with caramelized onions, and flavorful Italian seasonings, the pasta is tantalizingly Sicilian.
Finally enjoy the scenic drive to Agrigento, where you will stay the night.
Day 3
Exploring the Valley of Temples in Agrigento has been a highlight of Sicily for decades. Rising up on the grassy bluffs above the city Agrigento was originally constructed in 440 BC. Walk the time worn streets, neighborhoods and Temples of Agrigento and imagine a toga-clad society and how they lived here. The Temple of Concord is the most visible structure of all the ruins, similar to the Parthenon in Athens; the grandeur of the temple has not lost its imperial spirit. Scattered near the temple are telamons, (human figures that have bodies and faces deeply carved into the columns) which once stood proudly around the structure. Don’t let the busy entry detour you from going in, once past the ticket booths the crowds thin out.
Valley of the Temples Ruins
Photo by Roger Davies, Wikipedia
The ruins built over 2000 years ago show a civilization that had important part in trading then became a rich metropolis for its time. That the Valley of the Temples are still standing so prominently, it shows the perfected building skills of the Grecian Empire.
Don’t miss the Christian Catacombs situated between the Temple of concord and the Temple of Hercules. Tunnels underneath the ground dug out with little niches for the bodies of the faithful. The chapel once used by the early Christians still have original paintings reflecting their faith on the walls. Walking around the ruins of Agrigento should take about 2 hours. The entrance fee is 6 Euro.
Mosaic from Piazza Armerina
Photo by Urban, Wikipedia
Next stop will be one you will never forget, the Piazza Armerina shows the life of the 3rd century so vividly there is no mistaking what life was like back then. Once the retreat for a very rich aristocrat, the rooms and floor mosaics are virtually untouched, in perfect condition. Due to a flood that covered the historic mosaics in mud, they were protected them from wear and tear from sun and storm through the centuries. Start out just outside the Solarium where you will see small red brick aqueducts with roman archways. Ovens were built where water passed through the archways that would heat the water for the thermal baths. Impressive and very ingenious for their time, the water was used to heat the floors. Walking around the aqueduct enter into the first room, you can tell what it is by the floor mosaic. Covering the rotunda’s floor you will see a rather large Grecian man covered in fluffy towels getting a message before entering the baths. This was the start of a fantastic spa treatment. Once you leave the baths the rest of the house is on display. Fishing is the major theme in the large dining room. It shows scantly clad men working (some are said to be cupid’s) from their exquisitely made boats. Hauling in nets with fish above, the sea is filled with aquatic life and winged angelic figures taking care of fish, dolphins, and other sea animals. Other rooms display the hunt, a corridor showing a trip to Egypt with exotic animal. A favorite is the gymnasium depicting 10 women working out in their bikinis. For those who thought the skimpy suits of today were relatively new will find it interesting that women thousands of years ago used them as workout gear in the gym. Yes, fashion it seems always has a way of coming back around.
If you get hungry there is a large snack bar where you can with umbrella tables under the tall Eucalyptus type trees. The food is decent and reasonably priced. Try one of their many paninni’s or pasta.
You should allow about 2 hours at the Villa. There are other ancient sights you can visit if you are not in a hurry.
Take the scenic drive to Taormina thru the Sicilian interior highway.
After checking into your hotel you might want to find a comfy chaise lounge and relax on the beach or alongside the pool. If you still have excess energy take a stroll thru quaint Giardini Naxos fishing village, and explore the seaside trinket shops. The town is filled with cafe’s and many excellent restaurants. The nightclubs are filled to maximum capacity on weekends with DJ’s playing dance music. If you prefer live music, it’s not hard to find a lively club or soothing music at a piano bar.
Day 4
Taormina is a gem built high into the crevices of coastal cliffs also known as “the island in the sky” by past travelers. Taking the bus that traverses its way to the village gives a magnificent view of two azure bays. There is also the Mazzaro Cable Car with a quick 10-minute lift up the bluffs into town. What makes Taormina so spectacular is the view of snowcapped Mt. Etna Volcano. Photographers will find the best shots from the ancient Greco Roman Theatre built in 3 B.C., where decorative Corinthian columns frame the mountain. Some days a plume of smoke shows the volcano is still very much alive. The arena historically was used for sports and gladiatorial games, now they bring top name entertainment throughout the summer.
Taormina is unarguably the most visited tourist attraction in Sicily, as you walk through ancient streets its easy to see why. Marbled with vibrant flowers lining balconies of apartments, add to that colorful fruits and vegetables in wooden boxes stacked outside small markets makes for an enjoyable stroll.
Don’t miss the Tourist Information Office, There is a wonderful display of almost life sized, lifelike puppets dressed in period fashion. From the velvet clad King and Queen to the Knights in their glory wearing metal suits of armor and ready for fight, these mannequins are the history of Sicilian tradition.
Puppets of Taormina
Photo by Clemensfranz, Wikipedia
The main street of Taormina is Corso Umberto. Enter at the ancient archway of the Clocktower Gate, then stroll the winding, narrow streets this lively village. There are plenty of boutique shops that have colorful ceramics, jewelry, and local crafts. Stop off for a tasty plate of Sicilian Pasta or try a fresh baked pastry with a steamy cappuccino along the way. Pop into one of the many churches and check out the architecture. A favorite is San Nicola also called the Duomo-Cathedral, built around 1400 this rock building houses some very interesting artwork. Starting with a Roman arched window outside the door with a unique tall sculpted cross with the bodies of martyrs climbing up the cross toward Jesus.
On the inside the pink marble Altar, columns and baptismal basins are stunning but the favorite for all is the handcarved nativity scene in a glorious harmonious setting. Also you can’t miss the exceptional Baroque Minotaur Fountain that sits in front of the main doors of the church. The fountain is surrounded by 4 mythical horses that spit out water from their mouths into small basins that watered local animals. The fountain has 3 levels, the first has 3 mythological Tritons in the middle are holding up the basin with crossed arms overhead. Gargoyles encompass the first level of the basin with heads stretching over the side, protecting their ground. The top regally shows a crowned Triton type creature.
Sicily has so much to offer that 4 days will not do justice to this amazing island. This itinerary will give you a quick, efficient introduction that will leave you making plans to return soon for another visit.
Suggested Restaurants
Palermo
Trattoria Biondo - Via Carducci 15, Palermo, Ph +30 091 57 36 62. Old Sicilian style cooking. Best pasta’s and pizzas.
Il Delfino - Via Torretta, 80, Palermo, Ph+39 091 53 02 82. Good value, good food with superb Antipasti.
Selinunte
Ristorante Pierrot – Via Marco Polo 108, Selinunte, Ph +39 0924-46205. Beachside dining with magnificent views of the ruins. Fresh seafood, veggies, and pasta. Main courses $10-$25 per person. Nice stop for lunch
Agrigento
Trattoria del Pescatore - Del Pescatore, 92100 AGRIGENTO Ph +39 414342. For seafood lovers this is the place to eat. It is a little out of the way but worth the drive for good food. Price averages about $30 per person.
Taormina
Al Saraceno - Via Madonna della Rocca,16/18, Taormina, 98039, Ph+39.0942.632015. Well known for the best pizza in Taormina.
Restorante Anfora - Via Denti,5, Taormina, Sicily 98039, Ph (+39) 094224647. Great fish, meats and pastas just off the Corso Umberto
Suggested Hotels
Palermo
Best Western Ai Cavalieri - Via Sant'Oliva 8, Palermo, Sicily 90141, Italy. Located on a quiet street in a great location near attractions. The Cavalieri is modern with updated conveniences, clean and the restaurant serves delicious food. Runs approximately $175 per night.
Ambasciatori Hotel - Via Roma 111, Palermo, Sicily 90133, Italy. You won’t find a better deal or better hotel in Sicily than the Ambasciatori Hotel. First class service, nicely decorated rooms and a rooftop restaurant overlooking Palermo, makes for a memorable stay. Double rooms run approximately $125 per night.
Agrigento
Tre Torre - Viale Cannatello, 7 | Villaggio Mose, Agrigento, Sicily 92100. Perfect location near the Valley of the Temples, the rooms have ample space and there is a nice pool on the property. $85 per night for a double room.
Fatoria Mose - Via M. Pascal 4 | Villaggio Mose, Agrigento, Sicily 92100. Nice change of pace from the normal hotel stay. The minute you drive up to this Farmhouse Bed and Breakfast it feels like home. The rooms are rustic and cozy and clean. Kids love staying here, they can run around and explore to their hearts content. The food is fabulous, dinners are fun as you sit around the table and compare notes with other guests. There are only 7 rooms, make sure you book early.
Taormina
San Domenico Palace Hotel - Piazza San Domenico 5, Taormina, 98039, Italy. Drawing the most famous names for centuries this hotel is a spectacular stay. Well maintained and extravagant. If you are looking for something a little more special for a few nights then book this hotel. The outside garden is filled with fragrant roses and jasmine. A room runs about $350 per night.
